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Hey, I'm Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe. This time we're in perhaps the most historic and certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in, Istanbul. Thanks for joining us. Istanbul is one of the great cities on Earth. Period. For thousands of years, this place where east meets west has been a crossroads of civilizations. Few places on earth have witnessed more history than this sprawling metropolis on the Boserus. Enjoying the delights of Istanbul, we'll marvel at mosques, peruse the Grand Bazaar, be wowed by classic carpets, admire artisans at work, and learn why the dervish whirls.
We'll sail the Boserus, eat fresh fish off the boat, be tempted by honeydrenched baklava, buy some exquisite silk, and grab some ice cream. Or not, we'll take a side trip to Asia and lose ourselves in a sea of its people as we celebrate this vast and complex city. Turkey bridges Europe and Asia. Its largest city, Istanbul, straddles the Bosphorus Strait, part of the cities in Europe and part in Asia. The Golden Horn Inlet along a strategic harbor is crossed by the Galatada Bridge. It connects the bustling New Town and the old town with its fabled palace and mosques. After a cruise on the Bosphorus, we'll explore the Grand Bazaar, wander down the Isticlo Cadessi Boulevard, then finish in Asia with a
visit to Uscodar. Inspiring monuments showcase 2,000 years of Istanbul history, its ancient Roman and early Christian Byzantine period, its centuries as the capital of the Muslim Ottoman Empire, and its birth as a modern nation in the 20th century. While today the city is a vast megapolis of over 15 million people sprawling along both sides of the Bosphorus. Its oldest citizens actually remember when it had only a million people. In other words, the vast majority of the city is new. And its historic points of interest are mostly coralled into a relatively compact old center. The starting point for many travelers is Istanbul's state-of-the-art cruise terminal with its ingenious collapsible walls. It adds to the city's population
whenever ships are in port. A far-sighted infrastructure investment, all the buses and taxis are underground to efficiently move the crowds. In season, massive cruise ships pour thousands of tourists smoothly into the city for a busy day of sightseeing and shopping. When ships sail, the security and customs walls fold down and Galatada transforms into a delightful public prominade 600 yardd long. Late in the day, the people watching mixes with the commotion of the busy harbor to make it a Turkish po like none other. The Bosphorus is churning with boat traffic of all sorts. This narrow and strategic straight is a bottleneck busy with freigherss, including lots of Ukrainian and Russian ships since this
is the only route between ports on the Black Sea and the Mediterranean and tourist boats doing their maritime dosey-do dance around the serious cargo ships and fairies. For more of a mini cruise, it's easy to hop a sightseeing boat for a relaxing sail up the Boserus. Yes, an intercontinental cruise. It's a chance to see Istanbul from the water and get the lay of the land with Europe on one side and Asia on the other. Small historic towns marked by their minouetses are now engulfed in the sprawl of modern Istanbul. The boat passes an Ottoman emperor's hunting lodge, palaces of the nobility, and homes of wealthy locals. Locals who can afford the Bosphorus waterfront,
some of the priciest real estate in all of Turkey. And anyone can enjoy the inviting beachfront parks. The dramatic Bosphorus Bridge was the first bridge ever to span two continents. And the Rumaly fortress was built by the Ottomans 5 centuries ago. Back in the old center, the Galada Bridge spans the strategic inlet called the Golden Horn. For centuries, this easy to defend bay provided the city a protected harbor. A thousand years ago, long before there was a bridge here, a mighty chain was stretched across the mouth of this inlet. This gave the Byzantine Empire its safest harbor, which provided the city a critical key to both trade and military power.
While just a few years ago, its shoreline was an industrial wasteland, today the Golden Horn is cleaned up and lined by inviting parks. After a determined effort by the city and lots of investment, the people of Istanbul now share a delightfully green and welcoming people zone, the Golden Horn. Back at the Galada Bridge for fast food I estanbul style. You can grab a fish witch just off the boat. Mackerel fresh from the guys who caught it at one of the venerable and very tipsy fish and bread boats. And as the sun sets on the bridge, you can enjoy panoramic views of Istanbul's old town, an iconic place for more fast fish. or a nice dinner with a view of the harbor action.
There are lots of tourists in Istanbul and it's interesting to note that about half of them come from other Muslim countries. While Istanbul is full of iconic sites, there's one that seems to be on every traveler's list, the Grand Bazaar. In many ways, Istanbul's Grand Bazaar remains much as it was centuries ago. Enchanting and perplexing visitors with its maze-like network of lanes hiding more than 4,000 colorful shops, artisans at work, and tiny eeries. Despite all the tourists and knickknacks, the heart of the Grand Bazaar still beats, giving the observant visitor an unforgettable memory.
Thailand. In its day, this labyrinth themed warn of shops under fine arches was the World Trade Center for the entire Ottoman Empire. Locked down and guarded by more than a 100 soldiers every night. While today's main drag is touristy, do what you can to imagine the atmosphere here centuries ago during Silk Road times. The barrage on the senses, exotic spices, busy merchants, convivial tea breaks, and thirsty shoppers. The market is vast, and you can still escape the tourist zones to discover some authentic nooks and crannies. Surprises await in the low rent fringes.
A commotion of shouting marks the bizaar's poor man's Wall Street. These currency brokers are frantically swapping fortunes of euros, dollars, and Turkish lera for their clients. Others keep their fortunes in gold. The many jewelry shops are a reminder that Turks love gold for more than just its beauty and allure. Traditionally, it's considered a practical and tangible place to store their wealth. And much of that gold may be recycled. Around the corner, surrounding a humble courtyard, Sudi smiths labor over furnaces. They're melting gold trimmings from nearby jewelers workshops back into a pure and more usable form. For over 20 years, I've been visiting
Ihan. His skillful techniques have changed little through the generations as he works his trade. Gold. And with that gold, you can buy a fine Turkish carpet. Shops can come with a vast inventory, offering a warp and weft fantasy of options. Enjoy a colorful demonstration. Here I have four amazing art pieces that they are totally different categories. It's like a mother language. Each region of Turkey, we have different style. but be attracted not by aggressive sales pitches but by merchants who celebrate this rich artistic heritage. So the other name of those silk collection rags are flying Turkish run. With the fall of Christian Bzantium and
the rise of the Muslim Ottomans, grand mosques shaped the city's skyline and Sullemania is the finest in town. This soothing, restrained, yet magnificent house of worship was built by the great 16th century architect for his sultan Sullean. Although less colorful and less glamorous than some of Istanbul's other mosques, this mosque is bigger, older, and considered the masterpiece of Ottoman architecture. The tranquil interior is decorated in pastel hues and stained glass. Its vast expanse with no interior support was a marvel in its day. and visiting Turks make a point to visit the elaborate tomb of the Sultan Sullean whose nickname was the magnificent.
The Muslim faith is as varied as the Christian faith. Some groups are more orthodox and conservative and others more progressive like this congregation of mystic Sufi dervishes which welcomes women to take leadership roles. While some worship in grand mosques, others gather in a more intimate space like this where musicians set the mood. The leader guides the congregation in prayer and slowly the dervishes blossom into a state where they're ready to whirl. Dervishes are like monks inspired by the mystic 13th century poet Mevlana also known as roomie. Not all dervishes whirl, but all whirllers are dervishes. With one foot planted in their community, their family, and the other foot dancing around and around,
celebrating the diversity of God's great creation, they whirled themselves into a meditative trance. In this memerizing form of prayer, the dervish contemplates how everything in the universe whirls. from the smallest particles to the earth and beyond. By whirling, the dervish goes with the cosmic flow. Nevlana's teaching is all about love and finding that elusive oneness. With one hand symbolically reaching up to their heavenly creator and the other like a fountain showering that love on all of creation, the dervish meditates on how they can be a conduit of God's love. To get a fuller appreciation for Istanbul, it's important to leave the old town and explore the lively, more modern neighborhoods. For the visitor, Istanbul's central tram
line laces together the most interesting sightseeing areas. While often packed, it zips directly through the middle of town fast, unaffected by the frequent traffic jams. My friend and co-author of our Istanbul guide book, Lolli Serman, is joining us as we ride over the Galada Bridge. Rather than fighting traffic, Lai knows to stick with the tram as we head into the new town and the place where everyone seems to be heading, Taxum Square, Istanbul's contemporary heart. Taxum Square is a major transportation hub and gives us a good taste of modern Istanbul.
The traffic circles a statue that celebrates the father of modern Turkey, Mustapa Keml Adaturk. If Turkey is western looking today, you can thank this man. In the 19th century, the Ottoman Empire was in a state of decline. Its nickname the sick man of Europe. Following Germany and World War I and therefore losing, the decrepit old empire was swept away. And from its remnants arose the modern Republic of Turkey, founded in 1923 by Adaturk. The monument shows the two sides of Adaturk, the military hero of the war of independence and civilian Adaturk, the first president of modern Turkey, surrounded by figures representing the proclamation of the republic.
Nearby, a colorful trolley travels the length of the city's main shopping boulevard, IstAll Kadesi, or Independent Street. Offering a parade of local culture, it was born after a devastating fire in 1870. The Ottoman government took the opportunity to rebuild the area as a showpiece of the European style. The message, look west. The fine old architecture is a reminder that this street was home to the city's Europe oriented elite back in the 19th century. Even today, Istanbul's churches and foreign consulates are in this district. It's just teeming with people. I love to lose myself in this river of humanity, and it's lined with shopping temptations.
This fine shop sells silk scarves made in Turkey. Of course, designs with the tulips. Tulip is the Turkish. Wow, that's great. This pattern is so beautiful. Turks know how to spiff up their look with a scarf around the neck or as a head covering. And if you want to go to the mosque, which scarf would you wear and how would you wear it? If I went to ask, I wear the long one. Uhhuh. Like this. It's enough for me. like this. So you say enough for you. Every woman will choose how much modesty. Of course. If she is religious also she can wear like this in square one for example. If she's very religious.
Yeah. She can put a pin here. Then she do it like this. Okay. She can put it here. So this is an accessory to cover the hair. Yes. Yeah. So true to the culture and easy to pack. A silk scarf makes a nice souvenir. And the street offers an enticing parade of taste treats. Donner means revolving. And you know why? When tempted by a donner kebab. You can try the sesame rings called simmit along with your tiny Turkish vocabulary. Simmit nutrient one ring please. And for a fast meal with no language barrier, everpresent cafeteria style restaurants offer a can of fresh and traditional Turkish food.
You'll choose from a range of classic Turkish dishes. I'm having cabbage rolls, lamb chops, and potatoes. And something I always look forward to, my go-to yogurt drink here in Turkey, Iran, and my favorite dessert, rice pudding or sutach. But on this street, rice pudding is just the first of many sweet temptations. Popping into this baklava bakery, it's hard to resist such a festival of honey soaked delights. Oh, hey, look at this. Generations of local chocolate salesmen have worked this little station, pedalling a variety of Turkish treats.
There's a lot of different flavors. Yes. With hazelnuts and pistachios and dark chocolate and milk chocolate. Today, Holly loves to give samples. Okay. This is the pistachio we're tasting now. This is this one. Yes. What do you like best? Everything's good. And to really earn your dessert, try getting some ice cream from this guy. He's from Karam Marmarash, a town in southeast Turkey, famous for its toffee like ice cream. While delicious, it doesn't come easy for anyone.
Thank you. Oh, that's nice. Thank you. Every day, over a million people in Istanbul commute between Asia and Europe. Some take the 5-minute subway ride through the underwater tunnel, while others catch a ferry for a more scenic intercontinental commute. An array of fairies cross the Bosphorus every few minutes and cost less than a buck. And a memorable way for a tourist to experience this city's urban energy is to join the locals for a 20inute cruise to Asian Istanbul.
The city of Uscadar on the Asian side is now a suburb of Istanbul. While bustling and modern today, it also has a traditional religious feel. In the Ottoman era, it was the gathering and departure place for pilgrims and caravans heading to Mecca. Taking a stroll along its waterfront prominade or through its family-friendly parks, you'll notice a more conservative lifestyle. Oh, fresh fish. The marketplace offers a cultural scavenger hunt and plenty of ways to nibble on even more of Turkeykey's endless array of taste treats.
Oh, dates. I love dates. How do you say date in Turkish? Purma. In Ramadan, it's traditional we break the fast with a HMA. Try it. So, this is how we break fast. Yes. Happy breakfast. Oh, yeah. And there's a beautiful variety. So, these are grape leaves. Yes, they are grape leaves. And we use these for rolled grape leaves. So, you buy a whole bundle. They will sell by the weight. What would you put inside? Mainly rice, onion, and seasonings. Sometimes with meat, too. Beautiful. Look at that. Nice.
Yeah. Rick, this is Milo. We use this to make burk. Mhm. It's pastry. We make it s both savory and sweet. These ones I'm buying, I'm going to use with cheese and parsley and it will be a savory pastry. Can I come over? You're welcome. It looks so good. That's the delicacy. The best fish of a stumble. Turbo. Yes. It's the finest fish of Bosrus. And these are horse mackerel and anchovi. The cheapest protein you can buy there. My goodness, they're beautiful. Oh, I love olives. Look at so many different varieties.
Different regions, different kinds, and different cures. Why don't you try one? Yeah. And where is this from? Or South Turkey, Antioch. Naturally grown. It's great to have a selection, you know. And what is this? This is from the sea of Marmaray. Edit. The sea of Marai. Oh, that's really good. Let's get a mix. A little of that, middle of that in a little bag. Back on the waterfront, I enjoy the view from Asia across the Bosphorus back to Europe. Marveling at this extraordinary city, Istanbul. It's fast changing yet
strangely timeless. Truly one of Europe's great cities. And for me, it never gets old. Soaring domes, spinning carpets, whirling prayers, churning harbor. It's an endless prominade that broadens my perspective. The city's both rooted in tradition and modern facing as it navigates the challenges of today. The richness of Istanbul's culture, diversity, and heritage is seen in the faces of its people. This is today's Turkey, a melting pot of ethnic groups, Turk, Kurd, Armenian, Jew, Gypsy, Georgian, Greek, and more. And styles from the very traditional
to the very latest. The city remains a crossroads of humanity and according to the Turkish proverb, every guest is a gift from God. Istanbul bridges east and west with a complex weave of modern affluence, western secularism, and traditional Muslim faith. It's a dynamic city filled with delights. Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on traveling. Perhaps the most historic and certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in. But certainly the most popular city we've ever
filmed in is Istanbul. Thanks for joining us. Um uh
