How to Make Perfect Cinnamon Sugar Crullers: The Lightest Doughnut Recipe

Claire Saffitz demonstrates how to make cinnamon sugar crullers, a French-style doughnut made from choux pastry. The recipe yields incredibly light and airy pastries with a crispy exterior and tender interior. Key steps include making the pâte à choux dough, piping rings, and frying until golden. The crullers are coated in cinnamon sugar immediately after frying for maximum flavor. Claire shares tips for achieving the perfect texture and avoiding common pitfalls.

English Transcript:

Hi everyone, I'm Claire Sappitz. Welcome to my home kitchen. Today I have another recipe that is featured on NT Cooking. As you know, if you've been watching, I'm an NT cooking contributor. And today I have a recipe for maybe my favorite doughnut I've ever made. And it's sort of a doughnut. It's really a French kriller. It is a deep fried pachue pastry. It's coated in cinnamon sugar. It is so insanely light. It is like the lightest doughnut you're ever going to have and so delicious. Like a little crispy on the outside. They are super fun to make and it's great cuz like there's no resting. You like go straight

through. It's as close to instant gratification in a donut as you'll get. New York Times culture. Yeah. And they're like, make a cooler. How did you guys come about? Yeah. Okay. So, this kind of suite of recipes that I've been doing with NT cooking where there's no payw wall behind the recipe. So, if you click the link in the description below, you'll go right to the recipe on NT cooking. These were kind of collaborative. It was like talking to, you know, my editor and the team thinking of like what would be fun recipes to feature and the Kriller came about cuz we were talking about like cinnamon sugar and how that's always

such a hit and a popular flavor. And I was like, let's do a cooler. I've never I never made them, but knowing that it's deep fried pachue. It's like how could that be bad? So, I started testing them and these they all go they go through such rigorous testing um both like on my part and through NT cooking and their testers. So, it was really collaborative and I just had so much fun making these and learned a lot actually. It's a really fun recipe to make. I have it's like very straightforward. I have the recipes for the dough, which is a pachu, like a cream puff dough. So, I have some milk, some water, a little bit of sugar, salt, allpurpose flour. I have three whole eggs plus one white, six

tablespoon of unsalted butter. For coating the coolers, I have I already mixed the cinnamon sugar. It's a tablespoon of cinnamon plus a pinch of salt mixed with 2/3 of a cup of granulated sugar. And then for frying, I have eight cups of neutral oil. And that's it. Like really, really straightforward ingredient list. It's kind of a pantry ingredient. Like if you bake a decent amount or even a little bit at home, like you'll have all these ingredients ready to go. So it is as long as you have the oil for frying, you could kind of make it on a whim. So, as far as special equipment, you don't have to have an electric mixer for this recipe, but it's highly recommended to make the padue. It's just

going to make your life easier. I have made padache several times by hand, but you're really going to want to use a mixer. So, I am using a hand mixer. You'll need a saucepan for cooking the dough. Uh, obviously, you'll need like a heavy bottomed large vessel for frying. I like to fry in a Dutch oven because it's just like high sides, even heating. So, I have one behind me. You will also need some squares of parchment paper. So, I already cut them like 4x4 in squares more or less. And then kind of most importantly and most sort of specialized is a large star pastry tip. So, I actually bought this one special.

I had some at home, but they weren't quite large enough to get like the effect that I wanted for the quillers. If you're making them and you only have a smaller one, you could do a double ring when you're piping them. So, I'll kind of talk about that, but for like the best looking cooler, you're going to want an extra-L large star pastry tip. Peshue is a cooked dough. Kind of unique in like the pastry realm. Um, so you cook the flour on the stove top first with the moisture and then you add the eggs into it. So, it's a very eggheavy dough and the egg content is what makes it puff up so much. So you get like your e-clair, you get your cream puffs, and when you're making coolers, it's the same idea. Um, but there's like some slight

differences in the kind of pache you'd want to make for like other pastries versus coolers. So the first step we want to do is get our liquid into our saucepan. I always like a pachu that's half milk, half water. As far as the liquid, it's that mixture between it helps you kind of get that balance between like strength and tenderness having it be half and half water and milk. I'm going to add 6 tablespoon of unsalted butter, my sugar, and my salt. I'm going to bring this up over medium high just because we want to get it to a simmer and have the butter melt. And then I'm going to turn it down to medium. So, we're going to crank this kind of just a little bit initially. And you can stir to help it along.

So, this is at a simmer. I'm going to turn it down to medium. And now, we're going to add the flour. And with pachu, you add the flour all at once. So stir gently just to bring the dough together initially, but it's going to very quickly form a dough. It's going to look kind of like a like stiff mashed potatoes. And now we're still on medium. We are going to cook this dough on the stove top. And the idea here is to cook the flour. So it's going to like gelatinize all the starches. That's going to increase its ability to like hold on to more moisture so we can incorporate a lot of eggs. And we want to also drive off some of the moisture like some of the basically the milk and the water. We want to dry

out the dough and that's going to mean that we can replace that moisture with more egg content and that's going to give us a lighter pachue. So you have to be patient at this stage. It's not going to go through a really dramatic physical transformation. Like sometimes you kind of a pachu cooked for 1 minute and a pachu cooked for four minutes doesn't look that different. But there are some signs. You'll notice that it's going to get a little bit shiny and it is going to sort of stiffen up as some of that moisture is evaporated away. So, just be patient.

There's very few steps in baking where I'm like, "Look at the clock." Because generally, I'm encouraging people to look at the thing itself and pay attention to the indicators and the end points. But here, it's like, keep an eye on the clock. It's going to tell you that you've cooked it long enough. So, this dough is very stiff. It is a little bit shiny. This is ready. Kind of get this like six sense of it. So, I'm going to turn off the heat. We are going to transfer the dough to a large bowl. And now, we're going to let it sit before we add the eggs. And that is because it's super hot. So, we don't want to like scramble the egg by adding egg to like the super hot dough. So, I'm going to let that sit. And while that's sitting, I'm going to

mix some of my eggs first. So, one thing I learned in the testing for this recipe is the pachu that you're making for cream puffs eclair, it's too wet to really make krillers. You So, the pachue for krillers is really a stiffer dough with a slightly lower egg content. And that's why you want to cook it so well because the more moisture you remove, the more you can replace it with egg and still not make a pache that's so loose it doesn't hold its shape. So, I'm adding an egg white. Egg white helps to contribute some structure to the dough, which is important for coolers because you don't want coolers that collapse.

You want them to like puff up and stay puffed up. So, I'm going to take my egg white and two of my three eggs and I'm going to beat them together. So, the recipe is pretty specific about how to add the egg. And that's because I can't just tell you like make padache with one cup of flour and a half cup of milk and a half cup of water and add this many eggs because there's other factors. It's like I don't know how dry your dough got. I don't know exactly how large your eggs are, even if I'm calling for a weight. So, we're going to add them progressively and I'm going to be really specific about kind of calling out when is when have you added enough egg because that you don't want to add any more than that. And what you can do is

you can sort of mix the pache a little bit to help cool it off. It can help see how it's releasing steam. You basically want to let it sit. And you can see how dry it looks. You want to let it sit until it's it's warm to the touch and not hot. I'm going to add about a third of my beaten egg mixture and mix it in until that egg is fully incorporated. So, you want to beat it until it's smooth. Then, I'm going to add the remaining egg. You can see it's really thick. When I hold it up, it doesn't even really fall off the beers. So, I know this needs more egg. The question is, does it need the entire third whole egg? So, here's what we're going to do. We're going to

crack it into our bowl. And the reason I'm beating the eggs is because if you need a partial egg, it's like, I don't want to only add a yolk or only add a white. We're going to add half of the beaten egg into the pachu. Mix that thoroughly. Okay. So now the question really is, do we need to add the final amount of egg? There is a consistency test that I'm going to show you. So this is how we're going to tell. So I'm going to grab a spatula and let's take a look at the consistency. Generally with pachu for any other kind of application, you want it to kind of almost like sheet off of the spatula. So you get like a thin trail of dough that hangs off the spatula in a Vshape that is almost

translucent. Like it's super thin here. You want a V, but you want it to be thick. Kind of like that. So it should be thick enough to drop off of the spatula like so. And see it holds in a V, but it's opaque. I can't see through it. Another test is the following. It should be thick enough that it holds the marks of a fork when you drag the tines through it. So, if I drag my tines, my fork tines through it, see how it holds the shape? It can relax a little bit, but it should generally hold those shapes because again, like we want the um shape of that star tip to like leave its marks in the dough. If you are uncertain, like to me, this one can go either way. air on the side of less egg. If you're

like, h, I don't know if I could take it, leave it out. You're going to have really light curlers. I feel like this could take maybe like a couple drops of more of additional egg. So, I'm not going to add all of it. I'm going to add just a little bit. And this is where I'm just kind of like it's it's kind of subjective, but that's why I have the test so that you have a lot of different like ways of kind of making the judgment call. But again, if you add the whole egg and you feel like, oh, maybe the dough is a little loose, it's fine. Like, it's gonna still be delicious. And also, if you feel like your pachue is too loose, you can let it chill in the fridge for a little bit and that's going to help it

to firm up. Okay, so I added just that like maybe another teaspoon, teaspoon and a half egg. And I'll show you again that texture test, that consistency test. We with our coolers, we want them to be like these beautiful rings with nice definition from the star tip. And in order to do that, like it's a still a soft dough. So to get it into the oil, I mean, you could actually just like pipe it directly into the oil. But I think work what works best and I've used this technique a lot is to pipe on squares of parchment and then you lift the entire piece of parchment into the oil, peel it off, and like your cooler maintains its

really nice shape. So, I have my pastry tip already fitted into my pastry bag. I'm going to fill it. Because it's sort of a thick dough, you want to try to minimize air pockets when you're filling the bag. That's cool. Because if you have an air pocket, it'll cause a break when you're going to pipe the ring. So, I fold down the sides and hold it open and just I almost sort of have like a scraping motion of the dough into the bag where I'm sort of pressing it in. Now, this recipe yields, for me, it yields 10, and that's what the recipe says. Of course, it depends on the size that you're piping. The way that I instruct in the recipe, you're going to get sort of between 9 and 10. You could make them

bigger, you could make them smaller. You could also make different shapes if you wanted to, but we're just going to go with like the classic ring. So, I have my squares of parchment. One thing I'm going to do is to brush them with a little bit of oil. By brushing them with oil, it just helps to kind of grease the curler so it slides right off of the parchment when you go to fry. And this is a vegetable oil. I have the same vegetable oil I'm going to use for frying. A bench scraper just to help force all the dough into the bottom of the bag and pushing out any air. And then I just twist to seal. And if I had a pachue that was really loose, it just is harder cuz like it starts to kind of fall out of the

opening of the bag. I'm going to hold the parchment with one hand and just apply pressure to the top of the bag with the other and you just work in a ring. And then once the dough kind of overlaps itself, give it a little bit of like give it a little overlap and then kind of pull the bag away. And that's it. If you are using a smaller star tip, you can. What I would do and what I did when I'm testing because I didn't initially have the right size pastry tip, pipe the ring twice. like double do a double thickness and you know it doesn't turn out quite as nice but it'll look fine. So I'm just going to repeat that until I've used all the dough. And each time I'm twisting the bag so that I can build up

a little more pressure so I can hold with one hand and pipe with the other. All right. So I got nine. Mine are a little thick, a little big, but nine or 10 is kind of the yield that you'll get with this basic dimension of the parchment. And now these are going to sit at room temp uncovered while I heat up the oil. And I don't have you heating the oil as you're piping because they actually benefit from like a little bit of time at room temp just exposed to the air. It helps to dry out the surface a little bit so they'll keep that definition from the pastry tip. But you don't want to leave them so long that they like develop a skin and then your puffing isn't as even. So just in the

amount of time it takes to heat your oil like these just hang out. So I'm going to get the oil in my pot. You only need it to be like about a third to a half of the way up. and we're going to bring it up to 350 and then we'll come back here and fry them. Right now it is at exactly 350. So I'm going to keep my heat on medium. What always happens when you're frying anything is you put something, even if it's room temp, you put it in the oil, it drops the temp the oil. So you want to try to fry on a relatively even temperature. So I'm going to start I brought all my squares of parchment over here. I have a spatula. You're going to just take any kind of heat proof spatula and slide it underneath one of your

coolers and lower it into the oil. And initially, it will sink down. But what happens is as it starts to heat up, the egg is going to puff and it's going to bob to the surface. So, as soon as it bobs to the surface, I'm going to take that little piece of parchment off. And I'm also going to flip it so that it's going to fry ridge side down. And while that's frying, I'm going to add a couple more. And you want to just add as many as can comfortably fit in your pot without a lot of crowding. So for here, that's really kind of like three. And so we're just going to fry these in batches. And go ahead and keep kind of an eye on your heat. We're in 340 somewhere. They go a couple minutes per

side. So like this first one has been in there for probably 2 minutes. It's still kind of golden brown. I'm going to let it get nice and deep golden brown on the first side before I flip. And because the dough is like dehydrated a little bit on the surface, there's not a ton of moisture sitting on the surface of the coolers, which is good. So that when you lower them to oil, anytime you put something wet in hot oil, it's going to cause all this popping and sputtering and like it's a little scary. This is like a pretty gentle low-key fry because there's not a lot of moisture. All right, so I just flipped that first one.

I might flip it back cuz I can get a little more color on the first side. But these look great. They're like super puffy. The ridges held really nicely. And then, by the way, I have my cinnamon sugar. So, while that oil is coming up, go ahead and mix your cinnamon sugar mixture. Like I said, 2/3 of a cup of granulated sugar, a tablespoon of cinnamon. And this would be a great time to replace your cinnamon if it's kind of old. It just goes dead after a while. So, it's like you want something really fragrant and spicy. So, my first batch is ready to come out here. You can see like nice even golden brown. I'm going to just transfer it from the oil to my rack. I have a cooling rack set over a

rimmed baking sheet with a little piece of paper towel underneath. And then once they come out of the oil, let it cool off for a little bit, but while it you want it to be still be pretty hot. Not obviously so hot it's going to burn you, but while it's hot you want to get it into the cinnamon sugar, get it fully coated. And one thing I think crers immediately you're going to immediately notice is how light they are for their size. Just so airy. Okay, so let's take out these other ones. They look really good. I am going to coat them in sugar and I'm going to continue frying at 350 in two more batches, three and three, until they're all fried and coated in cinnamon sugar and then we can taste them.

Even though in a couple hours these will still be good, they're definitely best eaten fresh, like right after you make them. So, I'm going to go ahead and taste. I want to kind of tear one open and show you what the interior looks like. It gets this really cool webbing from the way the dough puffs. See that interior texture? It's like so eggy. I mean, you have to like an eggy flavor to like these, but I think they're delicious. But I'm going to taste. So subtly crunchy. All of the sweetness is coming from the cinnamon sugar on the outside. The dough itself, it's like only very faintly sweet from the sugar in the dough. It is that combination of lightness and richness that makes these

so good. And I definitely ate a lot of these when I was testing. You don't like feel so bad afterwards. Like sometimes eating a donut, it's like you don't feel great. It's just like a lot and it like sits pretty heavy. These like eat very light. Truly, this is dangerous. Actually, give it a try. I want to thank NT Cooking. You can go to the link in the description below for the recipe. Gift link, no payw wall. Check it out and you can check out some of my other recipes there as well. Thank you so much for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe.

More Food Transcript