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Hey, I'm Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe. This time, we're relaxed, getting all cleaned up to experience the wonders of the Sultan Istanbul. Thanks for joining us. Istanbul is one of the great cities on earth. Period. For thousands of years, this place where east meets west has been a crossroads of civilizations. And for over 400 years, it was the capital of the Ottoman Empire. And those sultans left quite a heritage. We'll see the historic highlights of this city. Explore an Ottoman palace. Marvel at the Sultan's treasures. Be dazzled by Byzantine domes. Anticipate with the Ramadan faithful the call to prayer, and descend into an ancient Roman
sistern. We'll go local in a sea of locals. Sort through exotic spices, dine fine with the help of the local firewater, survive a flaming face shave, and then luxuriate in an Ottoman bath. Turkey bridges Europe and Asia. Istanbul, its largest city, straddles the Bosphorus Strait. Part of the city is in Europe and part in Asia. The Golden Horn inlet along a strategic harbor is crossed by the Galatada Bridge which connects the bustling New Town and the old town which fills the peninsula conveniently protected by a mighty wall.
Here we'll find the venerable sites of the sultanss, the ancient Sophia, the blue mosque and the fabled top copy palace. While today the city is a vast megapolis of over 15 million people sprawling along both sides of the Bosphorus, its oldest citizens actually remember when it had only a million people. In other words, most of the city is new and its historic points of interest are mostly coralled into a compact old center. Over the centuries, this city has been the capital of two grand empires. During the Christian Byzantine Empire, which started in the 4th century and lasted about a thousand years, it was called Constantinople. Then in the 15th century, the Muslim
Ottomans took over and ruled what they called Istanbul until the end of World War I. Even though today's secular Turkish Republic is governed from Ankuran, Istanbul remains the financial, cultural, and historic center of the country. But the story goes back even before the Byzantine Empire. As the ancient Roman Empire was falling in the 4th century, Emperor Constantine moved his capital city from Rome in the west here to the less chaotic east. That was around the year 324 and the new capital was named after the emperor Constantinople. Then in 476, Rome and its western empire finally fell. That left Constantinople here in the east the leading city of European civilization.
Traces of the Roman capital here can still be found. This oblong square was a racetrack still shaped like the circus Maximus back in Rome. Built in the 4th century to seat over 40,000 fans, the Hippidrome was Constantinople's primary venue for chariot races. Its centerpiece, this 3,500-year-old Egyptian obelisk, was originally carved to honor a pharaoh. It was shipped here to ornament the racetrack back in the 4th century. What we see today is only the upper third of the original massive stone column. It's easy to overlook that in the year 600, Istanbul, with half a million people, was the largest city in all of Europe.
One good way to fathom that is to descend into one of its massive sistns, as the ancient city had an impressive water system. This sistern was built 1500 years ago by Emperor Justinian, who built many of the city's grandest buildings. Some of these columns were scavenged from ancient temples, giving the sistern a few artistic surprises. It was a huge underground reservoir, one of many that brought water to the city's residents. This one was the biggest, as it served the emperor's palace. For nearly a thousand years, fresh water from 10 m away was channeled here through pipes and across aqueducts. And part of the legacy of that original water system are the city's venerable public baths.
Hi, welcome sir. In this city of experiences, one of the most memorable is enjoying a Turkish bath. A ritual that goes back 2,000 years. And today, these baths welcome tourists. You leave absolutely everything in the changing room, slip into your slippers, and shuffle into the steamy calderium. It's all about relaxation. Turks brought the steam bath with them from Central Asia, blended it with the Roman bath culture they found here, and created this, the Turkish bath. Moving on, you continue relaxing and softening up under cascades of hot water.
Savor the experience, achieving maximum sweating and pampering. Then it's on to the big marble slab where your masseuse works you over scrubbing vigorously with rough brillopad type mitts under ottoman skylights blanketed in bubbles. Then more scrubbing as I imagine this ancient luxury working its magic over so many centuries. More bubbles, more massaging, and finally rinsing. Refreshed and cleaner than you can remember ever being. You venture back into the clamor of the city, ready for more Turkish history, art, and life. As a city which is over 90% Muslim, Istanbul offers a good opportunity to better understand Islam. Visitors are
welcome to visit mosques and in doing so better understand a religion that about 2 billion people practice. The Blue Mosque was the 17th century triumph of Sultan Ahmed I. Architecturally with its six minoretses, it rivaled the great mosque in Mecca, the holiest in all of Islam. Its grand courtyard welcomes the crowd that gathers for worship. As with all mosques, you park your shoes at the door and women cover their heads. If you don't have a scarf, you'll find loners at the door. Countless beautiful tiles fill the interior with exquisite floral and geometric motifs. It's nicknamed the Blue Mosque because of its blue tiles.
Blue is a popular color in Turkey. It impressed early French visitors enough for them to call it the color of the Turks or turquoise. While churches portray people like this, Muslims believe the portrayal of people in places of worship draws attention away from worshiping Allah as the one God. In mosques rather than saints and prophets, you'll see geometrical designs and calligraphy. This explains why historically the Muslim world excelled at non-figurative art while artists from Christian Europe focused on painting and sculpting the human form.
Artful Arabic calligraphy generally shows excerpts from the Quran and quotes from Muhammad. As a church would have Jesus and God front and center, in a mosque, elaborate medallions high above the prayer niche read Muhammad and Allah. Large ceremonial candles flank the mira. That's the niche that points from here to Mecca in Saudi Arabia where Muslims face when they worship. Like churches have bell towers. Mosques have minoretses. According to Muslim tradition, the imam or prayer leader would climb to the top of the minouet to call the faithful to prayer.
These days, the prayer leader still performs the call to prayer live, but rather than climbing the minouette, it's amplified by loudspeakers. [screaming] Five times a day, the message is always the same. Allah Akbar, God is great. Witness, there's only one God. Muhammad is his prophet. Come join the prayer. Come join the salvation. When this happens, practicing Muslims drop into a mosque, face Mecca, and pray. Then, after a short service praising God, work a day life resumes.
[screaming] To better understand this rich and complex culture, I'm joined by my friend and the co-author of my Estanbul guide book, Lai Sermon Aan. So, what does the call to prayer mean to you? It's a personal thing. Most people are Muslims, but it's a secular country and it's in our constitution. What we say is that you never know who has got the money or the faith. The real virtue is not to show it off. I see. But there's nothing modest about the religious architecture in this city. In fact, the best way to appreciate the magnificence of ancient Constantinople is to visit a church turned mosque that's considered one of the greatest
houses of worship in both the Christian and Muslim worlds. Aa Sophia, the great church of Constantinople. Originally built as a church by the Byzantine emperor Justinian in the early 6th century on the grandest scale possible. It was later converted into a mosque by the conquering Ottomans. Aya Sophia which marks the high point of Byzantine architecture is the pinnacle of that society's glory days. This magnificent church was completed in 537 just about when Europe was falling into the Middle Ages. And for four centuries after that, people in Europe looked to Constantinople as the leading city in Christendom. And this was the leading church.
This clever dome upon dome construction was the biggest dome anywhere until the Cathedral of Florence was built during the Renaissance 900 years later. The vast interior gives the impression of a golden weightless shell, gracefully disguising the massive overhead load supported by ingenious Byzantine engineering. Arched windows shed a soft light on the interior, showing off the church's original marble and glittering mosaic work. But the Byzantine Empire collapsed in the 15th century and Aya Sophia was turned into a mosque.
Christian mosaics were plastered over and new religious symbols replaced the old. So it's a church turned into a mosque. Yes. And churches are built to face Jerusalem. Mosques Mecca. Since they could not move the building, they moved the focal point of prayer towards Mecca. See the niche? It's off the center towards right facing Mecca. Very economic. Today, while Aya Sophia remains an important place of worship, tourists are welcomed up to the mezzanine level to marvel at the art, to ponder the tangled
history of this venerable spot, and perhaps to give yourself the opportunity to be inspired by one of the most esteemed places in Islam. While considered a must-see by visitors, it's important for tourists to remember that Aya Sophia remains a functioning mosque. My favorite souvenir in my travels is bringing home a broader perspective. When it comes to faiths different than mine, I like to learn without judging. We happen to be in Istanbul during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan. Here, gathered in a park between two beloved mosques, people reflect on the meaning of Ramadan as they wait to break their fast.
Fasting daily for a month each year during Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam from sun up to sun down for 30 days. No eating, drinking, or smoking. It's all about self-control. Muhammad taught that loosening ties to the material world makes it easier to enter into eternity as if unchained. It's an opportunity to share a sacred moment with family and community. They're primed, meals ready, awaiting the call to prayer initiated by the setting of the sun. A long h.
It's scenes like this, so similar to family holidays of my own, that remind me why I travel. To experience cultures different than my own, only to find out how similar we are. For me, another dimension of teameming and vibrant Distanbul is to simply enjoy its busy streets. Mix it up. There are quiet back streets and market streets teeming with shoppers. Sometimes I just let myself flow with the crowds as if in an endless river of humanity. You may find yourself in the dowry market like a department store without a roof. It's the place where brides and their loved ones shop before a wedding and the characters you'll meet. Seeing our camera, this fun-loving gentleman wanted all of America to know that if all the snowflakes in the skies were
women, his wife is the one he'd choose. And you can pop into a barber shop for a shave you'll never forget. Lather up for a good old-fashioned razor shave. And it's finished with a flaming torch to be sure all those extra little hairs are gone. A bit painful, but it's part of an experience that leaves you with the closest shave of your life and an impossible to forget memory. The venerable and thriving spice market sells an exotic range of tasty treats. You'll find everything a sultan could want. Saffron and cinnamon, dried vegetables and fruits, pistachios and hazelnuts, and a fragrant cornucopia of sweets.
This thriving market recalls the long silk road and spice road tradition of Turkey being an important crossroads. This was where exotic and treasured goods from the Far East landed to then be traded with merchants from all over Europe. I can imagine under each of its uniform arches, an importer busy wholesaling his goods to merchants at this gateway to Europe. But of course, today's trade is more touristy. This great Turkish delight. Oh, try a Turkish delight. Ancestor of the gummy bear. Which flavor do you like? The pistachio one right at the center.
Pistachio. But it's dinner time and I'm in the mood to splurge for some modern Turkish cuisine. Chef Omar Bozop's all about giving traditional ingredients a contemporary twist. And we'll be washing it down with the national drink, Rocky. In Turkey, this local fire water like brandy infused with licorice flavored ana seed is mixed with water and ice and is enjoyed throughout the meal before, during, and after. Our first course, the cold plates or mezz. A fancy green bean salad. Rolled grape leaves with rice, onion, and pine nuts with local cheese. And lamb's tongue paired nicely with rocky.
Next, the hot mezz. Zucchini with tomato sauce on a bed of yogurt with oyster mushrooms. Pastrarami with thin sliced tomato and peppers. It soaks up the butter and makes a fine little sandwich. Lamb testicles with bular and lamb brain with hummus. Here in Turkey, you could say snout to tail is brain to testicle with of course more Rocky. That's why we have Rocky from the beginning just yet to swallow the brains. How does it taste then? Well, it tastes um
Our main course is layers of felo with minced meat, garlic, yogurt, and chili peppers. Everything's laced together with Rocky. And now that he's done cooking, Chef Omar joins us, adding to the conviviiality. And of course, more Rocky. Istanbul's been a busy trading center from the start, so it needed to be well protected. This imposing wall helped fortify the ancient Byzantine capital. The wall sealed off the city, protecting it on the one side where the water didn't. Dating from the fifth century, these ramparts stood strong against both Catholic Europe from the west and the Muslim forces from the east until 1453.
That's when the Ottoman Turks, that aggressive tribe from the east, finally broke through the walls and established this city as the capital of their growing empire. Again, that's when they transformed Christian Constantinople into a Muslim city, Istanbul. The top copy palace is where we find the storybook image of the Ottomans. You know, sultanss, unics, and herums. The palace built in the late 1400s was the power center of the Ottoman Empire for almost 400 years. Its buildings form a series of courtyards, the outer being used for public functions, and the farther in you go, the more private the rooms. Among the most private rooms was the herum. The word herum means forbidden in Arabic. It's the sprawling suite where the sultan lived
with his wives, female slaves, and children. What a room, huh? This was the imperial hall of the Haren. This was the divine that the sultan used, his throne. The divons by the window were used by the queen mother and the wives of the sultan. And the musicians used the balcony up above. So this was like the living room for the king. Exactly. And of course, the Sultan enjoyed a state-of-the-art bathroom which came complete with hot and cold running water. Bathed in light from these exquisite stained glass windows, this is where the Sultan relaxed, entertained, and savored the sumptuous luxury that came with his power. Now, when we say herm, we usually think like a playboy mansion with a lot of girls.
No, no, no, no. It wasn't like that. Haram was an institution. The idea was to provide the continuation of the dynasty to provide a future heir to the throne. It was the queen mother who was the boss in the haram. It had rules very strict rules. The sultan was never above these roles. It's impressive. Ottoman Empire lasted for 600 years. Only one family, one dynasty never changed hands. Some of the sultan's opulence is still on display in the palace museum. The exquisite top copy dagger wows tourists with its dazzling diamonds and golf ball-sized emeralds. Clearly, the Ottomans in their heyday were a wealthy power.
The palace is also a holy spot for Muslims containing relics of Muhammad and other prophets, some of whom are revered in both the Quran and the Bible. This contains what's believed to be the arm of St. John the Baptist. And here's John's skull inside a jeweled case. For Muslims, the most precious relics are those of Muhammad, his bow and sword. Exquisite cases containing his tooth, some hair, and his holy seal. And in the adjacent room, an Af. That's someone who's memorized all 6,000 verses of the Quran, is part of a team that sings verses from the Muslim Holy Book 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It's just one more thread in the fascinating tapestry of a great city. A city enriched by its culture, history, and the diversity of the people
you'll meet in the streets. Istanbul remains a crossroads of humanity. And according to the Turkish proverb, every guest is a gift from God. Istanbul bridges east and west with a complex weave of traditional Muslim faith, western secularism, and modern affluence. It's a dynamic city, a city the sultanss would hardly recognize. Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on traveling. I'm rolling. My favorite. Yes. Wow. Yeah. Okay. A little bit more again.
